There was a time the words “tequila” and “blender” were hardly ever separate entities. Most consumers viewed tequila as some rough party spirit that required heavy concealment with syrupy fruit mixers, meant to be slushed or shot quickly on a dare. But as agave advocates and celebrities like George Clooney can attest, it has come a long way from its party animal past, as more bars and restaurants celebrate the popularity of fine quality tequilas, more of which are being imported to the U.S. than ever before. The category has grown a staggering 67% since 2002, according to the Distilled Spirits Council of the U.S. People are finally understanding these are elixirs intended to be sipped and savored like a good whiskey, worthy of serious top-shelf real estate. They are made with care and respect for the Earth and the elements, and steeped in tradition.
Tequila is, for all intents and purposes a version of mescal—a spirit produced from the heart of ripened agave fruit (the piña) that is cooked, mashed and fermented. However, there are several distinctions between tequila and mezcal production. Prior to fermentation, mezcal is made from agave that is fire roasted, while tequila’s agave is boiled or steamed. Mezcal can be produced from any species of agave; tequila is only derived from Weber Blue agave. Mezcal has its own production zone in and around the state of Oaxaca. To label a product as tequila, it must be produced within the tequila zone encompassing the lowland areas in the state of Jalisco, and the highlands (“Los Altos”) where it overlaps northeast into the states of Nayarit, Guanajuato, Michoacan and Tamaulipas. The higher elevations, prolonged sun exposure, low nighttime temperatures and tierra roja (“red earth”) grow a lighter, fruitier agave than the lowlands, which are more robust, earthy and mineral. People associate the word “terroir” with wine, but it is just as applicable to tequila.
The Spanish introduced alembic stills to Mexico in the late 16th century, when the first “mezcal wine” was produced from oven-roasted maguey (agave.) According to various sources, the word “tequila” could be anything from a native Nahuatl word for “work,” “plant,” “place where cut,’ or “rock that cuts” (referring to the prevalent obsidian stones in the region.) By the 17th century, mezcal was a common beverage served throughout Mexico. By the time Mexico gained independence from Spain in the early 19th century, the process and style of the mezcal produced specifically around the state of Jalisco became closer to what is now associated with tequila. By the 20th century, circa the Mexican Revolution, tequila became the most popular drink in Mexico, with government regulations on its production.
