By John S. Pomeroy, Jr.
Cavemen used carved stones to draw on walls; Picasso utilized paint and brushes. Similarly, the evolution of bar tools continues, and the cocktails they create continue to improve. Since the documentation of the first potent potables, there has been mention of the tools used in their creation. And with the evolution of the cocktail comes a logical evolution of said tools. When choosing the right equipment for the job, personal preference has a lot to do with it, but so should quality, efficiency, functionality and, of course, aesthetics. Function without form is acceptable, but to be a truly exceptional cocktail experience, a blend of both is ideal; the process of its construction should be as closely considered as the end result. And while procuring a great product should be the ultimate goal, watching it come to life at the skilled hands of a precision-oriented bartender is part of the allure.
A cocktail that was fun to watch come to life is just going to naturally taste better. They say the most important ingredient in any recipe is love; what better way to show it? The observational process is so much more entertaining, educational, and perceivably valuable when the bartender is using beautiful tools, that it makes no sense not to use the best tool available for any job in your bar.
For a long time, mass production has been the name of the game, but recently our industry has (thankfully) been seeing a trend toward a more artsanal approach. Just as a painter has specific brushes for every stroke, so, too, does a bartender have special techniques for each cocktail. Depending on the ingredients being used, whether the drink is to be shaken, stirred, or blended, what type of ice is employed, and/or how the libation is meant to be consumed, the type of tools to be implemented will vary tremendously. The right tools with the proper application will be the difference between an ordinary drink and an extraordinary one.
The significance of this fact has traditionally been a staple of liquor brands’ advertising, marketing, and branding positions. For as long as there have been bars, there have been liquor companies branding the tools that bartenders use, need, and want. Everything from bar mats to shaker tins to muddlers to strainers has received a stamp of various company logos. Recently, there has been an even greater emphasis placed on having the proper tools for the job, and companies such as Hendrick’s gin, Plymouth gin, Grand Marnier, and most recently Suntory, have put together entire kits for bartenders to travel with.
“Branded bar kits seem to be quite a growing attempt at building or maintaining equity in a brand within the community of key influential bartenders,” says Jim Ryan, national brand ambassador for Hendrick’s gin. “As I’ve gotten quite a few throughout the years, I’ve seen some great ones and some that completely missed the mark. Overall, I have noticed the thought and quality of the contents has evolved, but some still beg the question of the professional bartender, ‘How the hell will I use this five nights a week?’”
What is important to take away from Ryan’s sentiment is that with the increase in highly educated and tool-conscious bartenders out there comes the necessity for companies to put more thought into their kits. While having a fancy bag is nice, if it doesn’t have functional tools (or, at least, those needed) then it just sits and gathers dust instead of doing its job.
With so much emphasis on the right tool for the job, it should come as no surprise that today there are more companies out there producing cutting edge bar tools and/or reproducing classics than ever before. A review of some of these companies uncovers a similar truth to the one Ryan so eloquently verbalizes: There are “some great ones and some that completely missed the mark.” While many of these manufacturers are creating some great products, there are certain companies producing tools that seem to make the most sense for bar room applications.
Germany’s WMF Hotel series are exceptional tools, meticulously crafted to meet the highest quality inspection standards. Beautiful and highly functional, their elegance is immediately felt upon use. The ergonomic design of their Parisian shaker, for example, serves two purposes: it supports ease of handling and proper chilling/frothing of the ingredients. Their tapered, tin-on-tin shaker combination bottle necks so as to force the ingredients into a smaller space from a larger one, effectively spinning the ice cubes to maximize ingredient agitation. Designed with the “piston shake” in mind, this set also minimizes damage to the ice and thus minimizes the dilution. As any bartender worth their salt knows, controlling the dilution of a cocktail is as important as the ingredients used.
Gardner Dunn, bartender extraordinaire and National Ambassador for Suntory (the company responsible for Yamazaki Single Malts as well as Midori melon liqueur) has put together what is sure to be a highly sought-after tool kit in this industry, affectionately known as The Godzilla Kit. Adding the precision of Japanese tools is not only an exciting and new experience for many seasoned bartenders in the U.S., but it also serves to make it a truly exceptional and well-rounded kit. It has everything needed to make even the most commonly seen cocktails anything but. A modified Koobi chef kit, Godzilla is something unique and different to reward a Suntory loyalist. Stirring a drink with a 30cm, trident-forked cocktail spoon in an etched crystal Yarai mixing glass over the finest block ice money can buy definitely makes quite a different impression than the same process executed with the run-of-the-mill ice, pint glass, and spoon.
One of the most famous bar tool companies in Japan, Naranja makes some truly exceptional bar tools; notably the trident stirrer, weighted shaker sets, and strainer. As with the German tools, the quality of the Naranja tools can be seen and felt. Once experience with Japanese tools is acquired, it is difficult to go back to using the western standards.
One person who surely knows the impact beautiful tools can make on creating cocktails is Greg Boehm, of the well-known Mud Puddle Books drink recipe business. His passion for old bar books led to a natural transition into bar tools, as many of the tools pictured in those old books were nowhere to be found on the market. Greg has since become the authority on high-quality barware, and his Web site (www.cocktailkingdom.com) has become a mecca for cocktail geeks the world over. A one-stop shop for hard-to-find and precious bar tools and ingredients, one can find the aforementioned WMF and Naranja tools, tools from the U.K.’s Bonzer, as well as tools from several other high-end companies. Ever evolving, Mr. Boehm’s company is constantly finding new companies’ products to carry, and just like he did with the old bar books, he plans to reproduce antique barware for sale through his site. What you don’t see there today, you’ll likely see tomorrow, so keep checking back.
While on the topic of high-end bar tool companies, Michael Silvers’ Australian ÜBERBARTOOLS™ (www.uberbartools.com) deserve more than a passing mention. Again, as soon as these tools are picked up, one can easily tell the difference in quality. ÜBERBARTOOLS has something for everyone’s repertoire, regardless of what’s being created, and they make quite an impression.
When placed in a standard mixing glass, the julep strainer’s teeter-totter action brought both fun and conversation to the drink making process. The unique ‘V’-shaped design balances perfectly in a standard pint glass, tilting to one side when untouched. Pushing it to the other side is necessary upon straining the drink, but as soon as the finger is removed, it flips back to the other side as if magnetized. The weighted stirrer almost seems to stir drinks itself, as the momentum that comes with the heavy-grade spoon easily whips around any mixing glass. The Projig is also very unique. With its segmented top, a bartender can quickly and easily measure out ¼, ½, and ¾ oz measurements, all using the same tool. Pouring what’s been measured is also quite easy due to the triangular shape, and regardless of which section is used, getting it where it needs to go is very easy.
Ease of use, ergonomics, aesthetics, and availability are all essential considerations to weigh before making any tool choice. Using all of the tools side by side is the best way to find the right tool for you, and a collection of different tools from multiple companies may just be ideal. During my testing, for example, I found that the WMF Parisian shaker preferred the Japanese Hawthorne, and conversely, the Naranja shaker wanted the WMF’s strainer.
What it all boils down to is application and comfort. If the tool works and is comfortable for you to use, then it shouldn’t really matter how expensive it is or where it comes from. Unless, of course, your plan is to put on a show and thereby stand out from your competition.
If that is the case, put down that boring old bar spoon and pint glass, pick up that that 50cm, gold-plated, trident bar spoon and etched Yarai mixing glass. Stir that beautiful Manhattan before skewering the garnish from two feet away and gracefully flipping it into the chilled glass at the end of the bar. That is the essence of style and skilled technique, complemented with passion and quality.
What do your bar tools say about your bar?
